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BAZAARS IN ISTANBUL
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Shopping in Istanbul is often a huge part of any visit,
and the city’s famous historical bazaars offer a wonderful
insight into city life. Whether shopping for carpets, spices,
vegetables or clothes, the process of making your purchase is
likely to be enhanced by the atmosphere of wandering through
the crowded stalls - and of course haggling. As usual when
bargaining with persuasive shop owners, have an idea of a good
price before you start.
GRAND
BAZAAR
The
oldest and biggest closed bazaar in the world, also known as
the Grand Bazaar, has around 4000 shops and over 60 alleyway,
covering a huge labyrinth in the city centre. The original two
structures, covered with a series of domes and remains of the
15th century walls, became a shopping area by covering the
surrounding streets and adding to it over the following
centuries. In Ottoman times this was the centre of trading,
and a vital area of town. The Sandal Bedesten was added during
Suleyman’s reign, to cope with the rising trade in fabrics,
during the 16th century.
Traditionally the more valuable goods were in the old central
area, called Ic Bedesten, because it was more secure. As quite
typical of the area, most streets are laid out and devoted to
a particular trade, for example gold on Kuyumcular Caddesi,
leather on Bodrum Han, and shoes on Kavaflar Sokak. But the
trade has also spilled out onto the surrounding streets, and
it is very common to see Russian traders buying up huge sacks
of leather jackets or shoes outside the main entrance. Even
the streets leading to the Golden Horn are lined with outdoor
stalls, which have traditionally been controlled by strict
trading laws to reduce competition between traders.
Apart from the usual shops selling clothes, textiles, jewellry
and carpets, there are small workshops where craftsmen cast
and beat silver or brass, in a skilled trade handed down
through the generations. If all that shopping, bargaining and
fending off persuasive salesmen is a little too tiring, there
are also traditional cafes dotted inside the bazaar in which
to relax, eat and sip tea. There are also money-changing
booths inside and out. It is slightly less crowded during
weekdays, as most locals shop at weekends.
EGYPTIAN
BAZAAR
Also
known as the Spice Market, this is Istanbul’s second bazaar,
constructed in the same complex as Yeni Camii (or New Mosque).
There are six gates, which make it an attractive exterior. The
L-shaped market, together with the mosque, were built for the
mother of Mehmet IV, a powerful woman who ruled the harem and,
some would say, much of the empire.
Although no longer the prime spice trading area of the city,
there is still the aroma of ginger, cardamom, pepper and
saffron from the piles of spices sold from many stalls. These
days it is also popular for great varieties of lokum (turkish
delight), small souvenirs, flavoured teas and local delicacies
– including the dubious sounding “Turkish Viagra”. Locals come
here to shop for bed linen and towels, as well as for fruit
and vegetables, coffee, clothes, pots and pans in the
surrounding cramped backstreets. Outside the market on the
Galata Bridge end, is this is the best place to choose olives
from huge barrels, and many varieties of beyaz penir (white
cheese).
COPPER
SMITHS BAZAAR
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Lesser known and smaller, but nonetheless just as
interesting is this market in Beyazit, under the north and
east walls of Istanbul University. Copper is beaten and
produced into many shapes, sizes and forms, and shops sell
cauldrons, saucepans, buckets, candlesticks and the like.
FLEA MARKETS
Away
from the classical, historical markets which have always
attracted tourists, there are many flea and street markets
around the city, usually consisting of streets of junk
shops. As usual, getting a real quality bargain is often
down to luck, but it is still an interesting way to shop.
Cukurcuma Sokak is the central point of streets of shops
selling old wooden furniture, antiques, and books, near
the Galatasaray Hamam off Istiklal Caddesi. Uskudar’s Bit
Pazari is on Buyuk Hama Sokak, and in Kadikoy, Ozelli
Sokak sells mainly furniture. Horhor market, behind
Aksaray mosque, is famous for antiques, selling rare
Ottoman furniture. The Entel, or Intellectual Market in
Ortakoy sells arts, craft and antiques, music cassettes
and books, and is open every Sunday and usually very
crowded. Besiktas Pazar is open every Sunday, a warren of
streets near Sair Nedim Caddesi, sells bargain clothes.
Terkoz Cikmaz, next to the Pasabahce glass store off
Istiklal Caddesi, has bargain designer clothes, factory
seconds or overruns from France, England and Germany at
rock-bottom prices. Sahaflar Carsisi is near a flea
market, and specialises in second hand books
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